There are 4 more pitches, not too strenuous, but some delicate 5b climbing and with increasing exposure. All pitches are indeed drier except the second, crux corner. Start up the mossy, damp rocks of the approach pitch and hope it gets drier. So, flog up hundreds of feet to the looming black wall. It wasn't until 1980 that I finally got an opportunity. I was desperate to do his routes and especially this one, but it's high in the dank darkness of Raven Gully and always seemed to be wet. My partner and friend Robin Barley was a fount of information on climbing and introduced me to the legend of Robin Smith, a Scottish first ascentionist par excellence. I first went rock climbing in Scotland during my first year at Manchester University. There’s no going down from here, the only way is up and no-one is going to hear cries for help.Ħ. From the rim of the Gorge tie knots at the end of the ropes and make four abseils straight down to the tiniest of ledges with two bolts above a huge impending wall. Verdon was different and much more scary. We'd already been at Boux and done the brilliant Pilier des Formis, a route sculpted by the patron saint of climbing. (Subterranian Rabbit Launcher was a bit like this until it all fell into the sea. Then fire up the massive blow hole to the cliff top. Speleology begins as you climb 50 feet inland into the top of the cave, yes the top! Traverse the slippery wall to the light at the end of the tunnel. Traverse right and up around the arete and get into the small cave just above a huge lower one with sparkling waves crashing in. Abseil to a tiny stance just above sea level. This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. As the guide says “A magnificent bold wall-climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.” Certainly felt exposed, spaced and bold in 1964, no helmet, rope tied around the waist, a few slings around the neck, a Moac, and a nice pair of moleskin britches.Ĥ. Which route to choose on Cloggy? The Troach is just one amongst so many memories. When we first climbed out at the top the attacking screeching gulls were deterred only by whizzing a sling around your head with the biggest nut on the rack and screeching back. Stare up at the white and yellow licheny wall and start up the first of 5 steep, varied pitches, with the hardest at the top. Traverse through the vegetation over the steep drop and down to sea level.
Once you can see the crag, descend the damp muddy corner. On a sunny summer's day a joyful experience, finished by sun bathing on the turf and a pint or two at the Marisco Tavern.Īnother route I’ve done several times. It's a perfect 400 ft slab of golden granite soaring up from a surging blue sea and rearing up defiantly at the top.
The Devil's Slide is one of the easiest routes I've climbed there, but definitely one of the best. I must have been to Lundy six or seven times and each trip was a great experience. * Infamaous 5 failures, but sometimes just 0ne.ġ. Use your browser return arrow to go back to the top. The ids are many, so here is a quick access list. For the infamous failures, blame Brian Rossiter. So it seems only appropriate that John is the first on the list. Well, all you despondant Grumpies, John Jones (Elaine actually) has come up with an excellent idea to cheer us up and bolster our egos.
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